PRODUCTS USED ON EPISODE 8:
Soldering Iron: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-PN60L
Solder 60/40 Spool: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-SPL100
Solder Sucker: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-DP
Flipper Rebuild Kits: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PLFD-FLIP-KIT
BFKIT88-1L2R – Flipper Rebuild Kit Bally 5/80-11/88 Triple Flipper
4008-01003-04 – Machine Screw 8-32 x 1/4″ p-ph-sems
A-3711-4 – Flipper crank Bally linear left
A-3711-5 – Flipper crank Bally linear right
S-496-217 – Plunger – Bally linear flipper
ASW-A20-34 – Switch – flipper EOS 3 blade w/lifter
A-613-127 – Coil stop – flipper Bally
C-649-53 – Flipper bushing Bally early
SP-100-363 – Spring – extension flipper return
20-8790-2 – Nyliner® 5/16 inch bearing 20A-8790-2 C-537-8
4705-00002-00 – Spring washer .50 x .875 inch
4323-01158-04 – Set screw 1/4-28 x 1/4 inch sh-kn-cp M-1369
ASW-A10-45 – Switch – flipper EOS – N.O. secondary
A-3994-5 – Flipper & shaft – Bally pre-1987 white
03-8194 – FLIPPER GAUGE
77-MPT – Magnetic bowl – 6 inch diameter stainless steel
77-TMP – Telescoping magnet stick
77-1398 – 1/4″ nut driver (nut driver set)
77-2829 – Screwdriver set – 8 piece magnetic tip
77-PL5 Pliers and Cutters Set – 5 Piece
#P-6264-134 Flipper Base Plate – Linear Flipper
AQ-26-600_34-45 COIL FLIPPER
4:35 Kyle tells us about soldering and practice!
5:30 Kyle explains why a low wattage soldering iron is okay
6:00 Kyle shows off the tools he’ll be using in this episode
7:13 Kyle goes over soldering basics, teaches us about flux
7:30 Kyle cleans the tip of the soldering iron (PinTip)
9:46 Imoto asks about safety equipment
10:00 Kyle gives a tip about using needle nose pliers or “third-hands” to keep from touching hot parts and reminds us that solder smoke is bad for you!
11:30 Kyle reminds us to make sure that we wash our hands after soldering, lead is poisonous.
12:28 Kyle recommends 20 gauge solder at 2-½% flux
14:10 mgmstudio suggests using a small desk fan to blow away smoke
14:50 Kyle shows us how to desolder a wire from a coil and the difference between shiny, fresh solder and dull, old solder (PinTip)
16:10 Kyle explains what “tinning” a wire means (PinTip)
18:50 Kyle explains solder suckers
19:31 Kyle gets ready to solder the wire to the coil, reminds us to practice!
21:30 Kyle solders the wire to the coil
23:50 Kyle begins de-soldering the connections from the old coil
24:00 Kyle cleans the soldering tip again
25:45 Kyle talks about surface area and heat dispersal.
27:00 Kyle talks about oxidation
28:30 Do you need a high power soldering iron?
29:00 Kyle gives examples of when you might need more heat, and tells us his iron is currently set to 410 C. Also explains that too much heat is not a good thing in many situations.
30:39 How to Solder Comic: https://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf
36:15 Kyle grabs a rag to catch any falling solder
37:00 Kyle says he uses solder to tin his tip and says he doesn’t like using sponges to clean his tip.
38:35 Kyle desolders wire from switch and explains what the vinyl tubing on wires is for.
39:20 Imoto asks why we flipped the coil and Kyle tells us about vibration from coil stop and diode failure.
39:56 Kyle reminds us not to touch the iron to anything other than what we’re trying to heat up, watch out for wires.
40:20 Kyle solders the wire to the new switch
41:30 Kyle reminds us that dripping solder can cause problems
41:45 Kyle uses needle nose pliers to hold wire while soldering
42:30 Kyle slides vinyl tubing over the connection and suggests that it should be replaced if not present.
43:00 next wire removed and tells us about oxidized wires and ways to fix them.
45:55 Kyle shows that the EOS switch is now hooked and demonstrates its use
46:30 Kyle explains the use of the other side of the switch stack
46:56 Kyle desolders the last wire from the old switch
49:30 Imoto asks what to do if you don’t have enough wire length, Kyle says you can extend the harness or don’t flip the coil around.
50:00 Use heat-shrink to extend short wires.
51:00 Kyle solders ground to switch then checks his adjustment
51:40 Kyle reminds us that he’s going to use heat shrink on the EOS actuator and why that’s important. (Pintip)
57:00 Kyle begins upper flipper removal. (speed-run rebuild :))
58:50 Kyle removes crank and begins removing coil stop
1:00:00 Kyle removes the shaft and cleans dust from the flipper assembly.
1:00:20 Kyle removes Nyliner from the shaft and shows us the common wear on linear flipper cranks.
1:02:26 Kyle removes coil sleeve
1:02:50 Kyle replaces Nyliner
1:04:20 Kyle removes and replaces flipper bushing
1:05:18 Kyle explains that the flipper bushing screws are temperamental and shows us the correct way to align the threads (pintip)
1:06:00 Kyle gets new parts together and begins to reinstall coil
1:06:29 Kyle replaces coil sleeve and Imoto reminds us why he flipped the coil
1:06:56 Kyle replaces coil stop
1:07:00 Kyle replaces wavy washer and explains its function
1:08:41 Kyle pushes on coil stop to get coil tight while tightening the coil stop screws
1:10:18 Kyle gives us a view of the crank and demonstrates the play in the cranks and why it’s important to have.
1:10:55 Kyle checks flipper orientation and tightens the set screw.
1:24:45 how to make a Gottlieb System 1 free play? Kyle suggests setting a very low replay value or buying an aftermarket CPU. Or adding a credit button.
There are many ways to subscribe and receive notifications on when we go live. For your preference:
Happy Soldering and Flipping, Everyone!!!